Let’s forget about the cold weather and remember the time a few months ago when I went to Naples, Italy for the first time. This past Summer vacation was spent in Naples (5 days), then a small Aeolian island called Panarea (8 days), a few days (3) in Positano and finally 2 days in Rome to eat at a couple of favorites and see a fantastic exhibition of Luigi Ghirri photographs. Panarea was my favorite part. I love vacations but Panarea was better than anything I could have imagined.
Naples is a beautiful city packed with culture and a long, rich history. The historic sites and buildings are not as perfectly packaged as Rome. It is grittier and stranger than Rome. In the New York Times Travel section Rachel Donadio was “Seduced by Naples.” I can’t say that I was. I was intrigued and puzzled but Venice seduced me more than Naples. Perhaps Naples in the days before Pompeii was destroyed, or when the Bourbons ruled it as the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, I may have been seduced. More
I heard about Cherry Bombe and was excited to get my hands on it. Kerry Diamond, Editorial Director, and Claudia Wu, Creative Director (both worked at Harper’s Bazaar) have a mission: “To celebrate women and food, those who make it, grow it, serve it, sell it, style it, enjoy it and everything in between. Did we mention most of our contributors are women too? ”
With their first issue, “The Tastemakers Issue” they have succeeded in their mission. It was $18, but at 8 1/2 x 11 inches, 173 pages, 1 pound, 11 ounces, with beautiful photographs, styling and stories you want to read, it is worth it. The matte paper stock feels lush making me want to keep it forever instead of recycling it with my other monthly magazines. If you picked up Lucky Peach or any of the Edible magazines then you’ll know what I mean.
How can you resist supermodel Karlie Kloss on the cover with her bowl of The Perfect 10 Kookie batter that she conjured up with Christina Tosi of Momofuku Milk Bar? I haven’t tested the recipe for the kookie yet but I have tasted it (they’re available for purchase at Momofuku) and the dairy, gluten-free, vegan cookie is yummy.
A quick rundown of the table contents reveals known and unknown women and subjects (this is a small selection): Rachel Dutton, Harvard microbiologist who focuses on food; food stylist badass Victoria Granof who made all those Irving Penn food photos amazing; Helen Turner of Helen’s Bar-B-Q in Brownsville, Tennessee; Charlotte Druckman, author of “Skirt Steak: Women Chefs on Standing the Heat and Staying in the Kitchen”; Caitlin Freeman‘s cake tribute to Dries van Noten; “food artist” Jennifer Rubell; Nandini D’Souza’s memories of her Mother’s cooking literally adding spice to Ridgefield, Connecticut; Celia Sack of Omnivore Books.
There is so much jam-packed into this magazine that you should immediately buy it or get a subscription.
I enjoy the work that went into Cherry Bombe. They ran a Kickstarter campaign which is now over, but I’m glad they got their funding. Since it seems that art, fashion, food are colliding every day I’m happy to see magazine try to encapsulate that, and move beyond it.
I was ready to move on from Rome but this morning as I flipped through my small notebook looking for details on something else I discovered I had nearly forgotten about our last day, New Year’s Day, in Rome. It’s that J-O-B getting in the way again.
For the first time during our trip we slept in until 11:30 missing breakfast in the hotel and putting ourselves in a pickle. We were hungry but what was open? The lovely ladies at the front desk suggested a Sardinian place nearby so off we went to Perdingianu e Croccoriga. I won’t torture you with the pictures. I know that some of my food pictures have been less than fantastic (see the pork livers and wild boar from L’Asino d’Oro. Taste much better than the pics!). More
Our dining splurge in Rome was spent on New Year’s Eve dinner at Glass Hostaria. It was a lovely experience. We sat down around 8:30 and they managed to pace the courses smoothly until midnight. We chose Glass because they served cotechino and lentils at midnight one of two Italian New Year’s traditions that we participated in. The other is wearing red underwear. The food was complex but good and we left satisfied with mini panettones for breakfast.
Before I dive into the photos of food I wanted to mention this article in the NY Times, “Restaurants Turn Camera Shy” about people taking photos of food. It was rather amusing. I love the idea of people standing on their chairs to get a good shot. I also enjoy that there’s a class on how to take good pictures of your food. If there’s a whole class devoted to it, it must be popular. More
After Villa Farnesina it was time for lunch. I wanted to go to Pizzarium. Yes Pizzarium is closer to the Vatican than where we were in Trastevere but seeking out good food is always a fun adventure. I’d heard a lot about the place so I was curious. As you can see from the picture the crust is not thin. It’s more substantial to support the crazy mix of ingredients Gabriele Bonci throws on top. There is no place to sit so thank goodness La Mama left Rome that morning. There are benches outside on the sidewalk. We stood at the small metal counter inside which sits on top of the fridges that store beer and water. There’s wine too.
As you walk into Pizzarium you will see the cashier on the left and the pizza beckoning in front of you. The helpful people behind the counter will tell you the toppings but between all the combinations and my lack of Italian language skills I was lost. We just pointed at what we wanted. The pizza gal or guy will hold a pair of scissors over the pizza and you tell them how much you want. The price is based on the weight. Select two or three, the pizza people weigh your choices and print out a receipt which you take to the cashier. In the meantime the pizza gets warmed up, if you choose. Before handing you your tray of pizza they cut the big pieces into smaller, manageable pieces. How quickly you eat the pizza and wait in line for more is entirely up to you. We spent 50 euros, had 2 beers each and more delicious pizza than I’ve had in a while. There were people walking in just buying bread. I wish I would have bought some because that looked good too. There’s also a selection of flours on sale.
Since it was a beautiful day we walked around some of the familiar sights: Campo de’Fiori and Piazza Navona. There were some great looking vegetables in the Campo de’Fiori so I had to take pics and Piazza Navona still had the Christmas festival so those are here too. If you want to see Bernini’s 2 fountains in Piazza Navona you can go to my earlier post here. New Year’s Eve dinner is coming up!
Our fourth day in Rome was packed with art and culture. We visited (in this order):
-Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria (Bernini’s Ecstasy of St. Theresa)
-Church of Santa Maria del Popolo, Cerasi Chapel (2 Caravaggios)
-Galleria Borghese (Raphael! Bernini! Botticelli! 6 Caravaggios)
On our way to the Ara Pacis, before lunch, we passed by a cafe on Via del Corso that featured celebrity sandwiches. It’s not the first time I’ve seen celebrity sandwiches in a deli but it was the last thing I’d expect to see in Rome.
I believe in luck. I often feel fortunate. Eating dinner at L’Asino d’Oro our third night in Rome I felt fortunate to have discovered another fantastic restaurant. Were the Gods and Goddesses of Food and Drink smiling down on me? How did I manage to choose 3 places in a row that blew my mind in their masterful execution of what seemed like simple, straightforward dishes? Would this streak continue? (There were a few hiccups but overall yes). I’m not exaggerating. We ate another amazing meal.
If you’re in the mood for delicious food at an affordable price in Rome, then add L’Asino d’Oro to your list. Located in the “quiet treasure” or “cool quarter” of Monti, L’Asino d’Oro attracts couples, families and the older generation, people who like to eat well. After our day at the Vatican Museum with a lackluster lunch and later the Galleria Doria Pamphilj (3 Caravaggios!) we were hungry so we each ordered an appetizer and an entrée. We even had dessert which is something we try to skip (not because we don’t like it but if we drink wine then do we need the extra dessert calories? Balance).
I started with the pancetta with sage and vinegar (baffo all salvia e aceto) pictured above. I read that it was good. Who can resist an appetizer of bacon? It wasn’t just bacon though. It was the combination of pork with sage and vinegar that made it. More
If I lived in the Monteverde neighborhood of Rome I would eat at Cesare al Casaletto or L’Osteria di Monteverde once a week. Cesare al Casaletto is another unassuming restaurant that delivers amazing food at a moderate price. The other diners were families with kids, couples, young people, but no tourists!
During our trip bf’s mother joined us for three days which is advantageous come dinner time. More people means more food can be tried! We were ambitious with the appetizers: fried gnocchi with a cacio e pepe fonduta, fried squid and fried, boiled beef balls (I know this sounds weird but they were good, so good. Maybe it’s better in Italian: polpette di bollito con pesto di basilico).
Fried gnocchi already sound indulgent but put them over a smooth, cheesy sauce, try one and you want eat them all.
Another fried item! Usually we moderate the fried food intake but how can you resist these? With just a little squeeze of lemon? Ohhh yum!
Mmm…a fried, crispy orb of roasted beef with a basil pesto. Cesare al Casaletto has a magic touch with fried food items. These were every bit as tasty as the squid and gnocchi. Thank goodness there were only three, one for each of us. It didn’t matter though because we had stuffed ourselves with the other fritti. When our entrees arrived I wanted to hide under the table. Looking at my plate of tonarelli with baccala though I couldn’t resist trying it which led to me eating almost all of it. My parents never forced me to be a member of the Clean Plate Club. It was more like take what you can eat but if you can’t eat all of it we won’t be mad. I wanted to eat all of my tonarelli to show how appreciative I was of the chef and restaurant but I had a feeling they knew.
Bf had the same problem eating his pasta.
This looked wonderful. I didn’t want to ask bf’s mom for a bite. We’re not close enough for that. She loved it though. This reminds me that as much as I love fish and seafood I didn’t have it in Rome. There were plenty of opportunities but whenever I heard or read about the pasta dishes I couldn’t resist. I haven’t had any pasta since I’ve been back, not because I’m afraid of it not being the same, but because my body needs a break from the carb fest.
Knowing nothing about restaurants in Rome made the task of finding places for lunch or dinner overwhelming. It’s easy to google Best Restaurants in Rome, but who to trust? The most useful blog I found was Elizabeth Minchilli in Rome. The best part is that she has an app called Eat Rome for iOs and Android which is absolutely worth $3.99. Her list of go to restaurants is in alphabetical order but you can also search by price or neighborhood. There are pictures of food to tempt you and a map to help you navigate which can be used offline. Another useful blog was Parla Food.
Since we would be in Rome for 6 nights I wanted to find moderately priced restaurants for dinner and one splurge for New Year’s. Reading through the Eat Rome app and googling my choices I made a list of potentials. Since I was concerned about the city being really busy during the holidays, I booked New Year’s first and then the rest. I may have been too cautious calling to make reservations about 2 weeks in advance. Symptom of living in New York perhaps.
Our first evening was spent at the marvelous L’Osteria di Monteverde.
After a big breakfast, a jet-lagged trek through the highlights of Rome where we skipped lunch, I was hungry. The menu revealed several things I wanted to eat but the most appealing was an 8 course tasting menu for 36 Euros, roughly $48, which also included water, bread and dessert. I read it 3 times just to be sure I wasn’t seeing things. I glanced at bf to see if he was still scanning the menu. More
I was missing you as I woke up the last morning of our trip. The romance of your light and historical monuments plus the idiosyncrasies of your history, people and art will resonate with me. The abundance of tasty things to eat and drink at reasonable prices was a constant thrill. Walking around your streets for nearly 8 hours a day for 6 days straight was not enough to see all you had to offer. The seagull sitting on the head of the Moor in Bernini’s fountain above illustrates your past and present, and simply makes me smile.
In the days leading up to the trip I had an idea of what we would see but what made me put on a different thinking cap was a bag of pretzels on Alitalia. More