I was ready to move on from Rome but this morning as I flipped through my small notebook looking for details on something else I discovered I had nearly forgotten about our last day, New Year’s Day, in Rome. It’s that J-O-B getting in the way again.
For the first time during our trip we slept in until 11:30 missing breakfast in the hotel and putting ourselves in a pickle. We were hungry but what was open? The lovely ladies at the front desk suggested a Sardinian place nearby so off we went to Perdingianu e Croccoriga. I won’t torture you with the pictures. I know that some of my food pictures have been less than fantastic (see the pork livers and wild boar from L’Asino d’Oro. Taste much better than the pics!).
We shared an appetizer of Sardinian specialties: pecorino, ricotta salata, suppli, spicy small salami, regular size salami, flatbread, a spinach spread already on bread and proscuitto. And because every tired slightly hungover person needs fuel to veg out the rest of the day we had pasta: malloreddus and culurgiones both in tomato sauces. Everything was delicious and fresh.
After some much needed lazing about we ventured out before dinner to take in the sights. The Trevi Fountain was slightly less crowded than the daytime. The drizzle may have had something to do with that too.
Our last dinner at Renato e Luisa was another memorable experience. In addition to the menu there was a long list of specials that we asked to hear twice because it was impossible to catch it all at once. Our waitress recited it the first time and then Luisa! delivered it the second. Since we weren’t familiar with all the preparations or ingredients we asked a lot of questions. Everything we chose was a special and so worth it. As we finished our meal Luisa came by to tell us that it’s unusual for people to ask about the specials unless they’re regulars and even fewer ask for more details. She decided that we must like food. If she only knew. Looking at these pictures I remember our dinner and I wish I was there.
To start we shared baccala layered with fried potatoes. Never had it like this but I was happy that we did.
Bf had the veal shank and I had pappardelle with lamb and mint.
Artichokes were in season and we hadn’t had them yet so we did. We also got a puntarelle salad that we couldn’t stop eating. We discovered the secret were the anchovies added to the oil, vinegar and whatever else dressing. I found puntarelle the other day in Eataly and tried to make a salad with it. I wish there was a video of how to cut it down before putting it in the cold water bath. I read 3 or 4 explanations of how to but some visual guidance would have been useful.
There was another special of Spanish anchovies with burrata wrapped in a cabbage leaf (I think). It’s the one that got away. I loved the artichokes but I wish we would have switched.
Because I felt sad to be leaving the next morning I ordered dessert. I can make this last longer by eating more! Maybe not the best idea but the ricotta mousse with chocolate sauce and orange marmalade was still delicious. Oh and perhaps to reward our healthy appetites they gave us 2 glasses of Passito. Even without the complementary dessert wine I add this to my list of outstanding Roman restaurants!
Now I am officially done with the trip to Rome. Next we’re tackling India!